SilverStone Seta A2 Review | PCMag

Unless you drop it or have a habit of cross-threading screws, the Seta A2 will probably outlive your next build and the one after that. It’s big, sturdy, and well-vented enough that it should stick around at least until a future system demands some new must-have cable connector.

But it comes down to what you want from a case: massive liquid cooling potential? Lots of storage bays? Support for huge GPUs? All of that? This Seta can supply each of those, sometimes at the expense of one of the others. Here, buyers are paying for a removable stack of eight drive bays that hide a pair of 420mm-format radiator mounts in an age where many of us have moved on to cloud or networked storage. The rest of the case holds seven more 2.5-inch or three more 2.5-inch plus two more 3.5-inch drives, and the stack of racks covers up another 3.5-inch bay. (We’d love to hear in the comments section how you’d fill all those bays.) 

Front-panel connectors include the old-fashioned pair of stereo jacks for a separate headphone and microphone, a pair of USB 3.x Type-A ports, and a Gen 2×2 Type-C port, all lined up with lighted power and reset buttons and an unlit mode button for the integrated LED controller. All this is along the front of the top panel’s right edge.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

In the image above, the vented portions of the top and right-side panels are also visible, as is a light diffuser that sits between the plastic front-panel frame and its gold-painted metal accent.

Around back, we see an eighth expansion slot on a removable square that can be rotated to fit vertical card risers (not included). The eighth slot used to be popular for adding a third double-slot graphics card to the bottom slot of a motherboard, back in the days of SLI and CrossFireX. It could still potentially be used that way by anyone who wants the added power of an extra card for AI or other number-crunching tasks. But that’s an admittedly niche need in 2025.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

Other rear-panel features include a power-supply mounting plate that’s held in place via two captured screws, and a vertically adjustable 140mm exhaust fan on 120mm/140mm screw slots.

A dust filter that covers the bottom panel all the way to the front panel slides out from beneath the power supply’s bay.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

Snapping off the front panel provides access to the factory-installed trio of 140mm intake fans, but the panel cannot be set aside easily, due to its ARGB LED wires being firmly affixed at its edge. Users who really want to remove these can disconnect them from the case internally, then pull the wires through the access hole.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

The top panel snaps away to access a removable fan bracket that’s large enough to fit radiators up to 464mm long through its mounting hole, but the case still lacks the space to fit a 420mm radiator’s average total length of 460mm. The problem? The front fan bracket sits only a few millimeters below the top bracket, so that even sliding the radiator all the way back only leaves 448mm of mounting space. Unless they are willing to ditch the front fan bracket, builders will be forced to choose between a 360mm- or 280mm-format top radiator here. If you just want air cooling up here, though, there’s still enough space for a trio of 140mm fans without the added length of a radiator’s end caps.

We also see drive-mounting holes on top of the stack of drive cages (photo right) and on the top of the power-supply shroud (bottom left): Both fit 2.5-inch drives mounted on vibration-damping grommets.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

The holes in the slide-out plastic trays (right) accept screws without the vibration-damping grommets that fit the drive mounting holes of the power supply shroud (left). The plastic trays also have molded-in mounting pins along the outer edge to secure 3.5-inch drives without the need for screws, additional holes for 3.5-inch drives (just in case you decide to screw them down anyway), and two extra sets of holes (set at the spacing for 2.5-inch drives) to fit the smaller drives at different depths.

The factory-installed graphics-card brace can also be seen below. Its bottom bracket has three sets of slots to adjust distance from the back of the case or the surface of the motherboard, and the power-supply shroud that it screws to has four sets of holes to further increase motherboard distance-adjustment options.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

Now you see it: The Seta A2’s motherboard tray is filled with extra holes to support the rearward-facing connectors of motherboards in the Asus Back to the Future (BTF) and MSI Project Zero style, in both ATX and Micro ATX form factors. The stack of removable drive cages limits motherboard and graphics-card depth to 298mm.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

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Now you don’t: Removing the drive cage stack from the side fan mount gives builders access to the full 438mm of distance between the front fan bracket and the rear slot bracket. With those cages out of the way, users can fill the empty space on the bottom panel with their choice of a 140mm or 120mm fan, or a 3.5-inch hard drive.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

The image above also gives us a better look at the power-supply shroud’s final set of mounting holes: the four mentioned earlier for the vertical graphics card support bracket.

A look into the right side of the case with the panel off gives potential builders a clue to the tedium of removing the front-panel ARGB strip’s cables. It also gives us a better look at the removable drive plate that covers the back of the CPU area, as well as another beneath it, both designed to hold either one 3.5-inch drive or two 2.5-inch drives. There’s yet another 2.5-inch drive mount on the front cap of the power supply bay.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

Here’s a closer look at those drive trays, as well as four of the six screws that secure all the removable drive cages to the other side.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)

As alluded to earlier, the chassis comes with a built-in ARGB controller that’s also a fan hub. You can switch it to passive hub mode by holding its mode button for a few seconds; it will then take instructions from a motherboard LED header. The integral fan hub also takes its cues from a motherboard PWM fan header.

(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)